"Permaquad" Climbing Anchor

The “Permaquad” is an improved, streamlined, and safer version of the “quad anchor” commonly used by climbers.

Problem

Rock and ice climbing involve obvious risks. Although accidents related to gear failure have declined as the result of technological advances, accidents attributed to human error have persisted. Hand-tied “quad anchors,” a relatively new advance in protection systems, can mitigate the risk of a fall by distributing the load equally between two anchor pieces. Because these systems are assembled by the climber, they are subject to human errors that can go unnoticed while knotting together the anchor components. Furthermore, climbers who wish to use the quad anchor system must carry either at least fourteen feet of cordelette or a quadruple-length sling with them while climbing and construct the system on their own. Many climbers are tempted to leave the knots of the quad systems permanently in place for convenience; this practice does not substantially improve the system’s portability and creates wear points that can lead to failure.

Solution

In response for the need for a safer, more convenient device, USU researchers have developed an ready-made version of the quad anchor, which eliminates the potential for human error and improves portability and convenience. The device includes loops that provide redundancy in the event of rope failure and that reduce the opportunity of anchor failure.

Benefits

The Permaquad does not need to be re-assembled for each climb, reducing the chance of human error. It also avoids the erosion that typically occurs in a permanently self-tied system, and reduces bulk and weight of equipment.

Applications

Rock and ice climbing.

Contact

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Questions about this technology including licensing availability can be directed to:

Alan Edwards, MA, JD
Manager, Technology Transfer Services
(435) 797-2328 alan.edwards@usu.edu

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USU ID C20018